National Coach Museum

1905: the Royal Riding School

Queen Amélia of Orléans and Braganza, wife of Carlos I, created the Museu dos Coches Reais on 23 May 1905 to gather the carriages scattered across the stables and coach houses of the palaces of Belém, Ajuda and Necessidades. The site was the Picadeiro Real, the Royal Riding School of Belém Palace, built in 1787 and converted by the court architect Rosendo Carvalheira with painted ceilings by José Malhoa and Conceição Silva. The monarchy fell five years later; the museum stayed, became national, and the arena with its balconies and its ceiling was the whole museum for 110 years — a long gilded room in which the largest coaches stood axle to axle.

2015: Mendes da Rocha's building across the road

In 2008 the government commissioned a new building to hold the entire collection, and gave it to the Brazilian architect Paulo Mendes da Rocha, Pritzker laureate of 2006, working with the Lisbon studio of Ricardo Bak Gordon and the engineer Rui Furtado. The result, on Avenida da Índia opposite the old arena, is a raised concrete box on pilotis with a public square passing underneath it; the collection moved on 23 May 2015, the museum's 110th birthday. The Riding School kept a smaller display — coaches and landaus, the royal family's portrait gallery and the cavalry accessories — and the two buildings now work as one museum with the tram line between them.

The main hall: from Philip II's travelling coach to the Pope's embassy

The vehicles are arranged in a long sequence on one level, so you walk from the late sixteenth century to the nineteenth. The oldest is the coach of Philip II of Spain (Philip I of Portugal), a plain travelling coach of the 1580s that is among the earliest surviving anywhere. The centre of the collection, and of the room, is the set of three baroque coaches built in Rome in 1716 for the embassy of the Marquis of Fontes to Pope Clement XI: gilded, carved with allegories of Portugal's oceans, and made to be seen once in a procession and then kept.

Around them are the royal berlins, the ceremonial coaches of João V's court, the state coaches of the nineteenth century, sedan chairs, children's carriages and a gallery of harnesses — a Mexican silver hunting harness, two Algerian harnesses given to Queen Amélia, a gaucho saddle. Look up at the coaches' roofs and down at their undercarriages: the raised floor of the hall lets you see both.

The Royal Riding School: the room

Cross under the new building and over the tram line to Praça Afonso de Albuquerque. The Riding School is one long arena with a painted ceiling and balconies on either side, hung with the portrait gallery of the last royal family; the coaches left in it are the ones that suit its scale. Twenty minutes is enough, and the point is the room.

The MMP page prints no separate fare for it; the desk in the new building will tell you whether your ticket crosses the street.

It is the Belém museum that works with children: the objects are big, gilded and obviously vehicles, the hall is one level with no stairs on the route, and a circuit takes under an hour. Under-12s enter free, so a family of four pays two adult fares or, with a teenager, the €7.50 family rate per person. The raised floor lets you look at undercarriages, and the harness gallery is the room to head for with a child who has stopped looking at coaches.

The building has a lift between the entrance level and the hall, a shop and toilets at the entrance; the MMP page prints no accessibility statement, so we describe the layout and not a policy. Photography without flash is the norm in MMP museums and nothing on the page says otherwise. The shop at the entrance sells the museum's own catalogue, which is the only printed guide to the collection in English we found; the café is across the square in the CCB rather than in the building.

Coats and large bags go in the lockers by the desk, and the hall is cool in summer — one of the reasons it is the Belém interior to save for the hottest hour.

Five coaches to find

The list is our routing, not the museum's; the audio ticket names them in order along the hall.

• The travelling coach of Philip II of Spain, 1580s: the oldest, and the plainest — leather, not gold.
• The three Roman embassy coaches of 1716: the allegories of the Oceans on the rear of the largest are the museum's signature.
• The coach of João V's coronation of Pope Clement XI's ambassador — look for the Portuguese arms on the door.
• The Crown coach used at the 1826 acclamation, the last state coach built for a Portuguese monarch.
• The children's carriages and sedan chairs at the end of the hall, which is where a child's attention returns.

The lead-in names the source; the table is what you pay. Hours are Tuesday to Sunday 10:00–18:00, last entry 17:30. Closed Mondays and on 1 January, Easter Sunday, 1 May, 13 June, and 24 and 25 December — note the 24 December, which the monastery and the tower do not share.

The free Sunday for tourists ended on 1 August 2024; free days are now for residents in Portugal only. The Monday closures page lists what else shuts.

Tram 15E from Praça da Figueira or Cais do Sodré stops at Belém (Museu Coches), which is between the two buildings; €3.30 onboard, €1.72 with zapping, covered by the €7.25 day ticket and by the Lisboa Card. Belém station on the CP Cascais line is five minutes west. Bus 728 stops on Avenida da Índia.

On foot from the Jerónimos Monastery it is ten minutes east along Rua de Belém past the pastry shop. The new building's entrance is on Avenida da Índia; the Riding School faces the square with the Belém Palace, the president's residence, on its far side. The getting around page explains the fares.

After the pastries and before the river. On a Belém morning it is the easy hour between Pastéis de Belém and the walk east to the MAAT, or the indoor hour when the weather turns; with children it can replace the Jerónimos cloister entirely. It is closed on Mondays with the rest of the state monuments, so on that day the Monument to the Discoveries and the MAAT are the Belém indoors.

The Belém page puts it on the map with walking minutes; the rainy day page ranks it among the city's dry hours.